A Basket of Morels Is A Foragers Feast

By Janeen Sarlin

Morel gatherers are very tight-lipped about where they forage. Morels grow in abandoned apple orchards or disturbed terrain, such as burn sites and dug-up earth making cemeteries a coveted secret area for these spongy cone headed mushrooms. Often morels are persistent enough to poke through fire-scorched logs or fields gone to seed.

Not a forager? Most gourmet stores and farm markets offer these tasty morsels for sale. Look for unblemished morels that are pleasant smelling and without holes. If there’s dirt or wet spots, wilted stems, trim them off before using. Store all mushrooms in the refrigerator, spread out in a shallow woven basket loosely covered with a paper towel. And keep them on a wire shelf so the air can circulate around them. To clean morels, fill a large bowl with lukewarm water, add a pinch of sea salt and stir until dissolved. Add morels and gently swish them around to rid them of sand and dirt and immediately drain, shake off excess water, and pat dry with paper towels.

Classic sautéed morels are the perfect side dish to serve with most everything from fillet of sole or roast chicken to a steak.

Apples and morels are made for each other. This recipe for Morels with Calvados is adapted from a forager expert and colleague, Amy Farges. It is elegant as a first course for a fine dinner party.

For mushroom lovers, pasta with fresh morels, cultivated mushrooms and herbs is a combination that is a basic go-to dinner. Add a salad and pour a glass of crisp Sauvignon Blanc with dinner. Bon appetit!

Classic Sautéed MorelsAdapted from Le Guide Culinaire, Escoffier, Mayflower Books 1907

(Serves 4)About 1 pound morels, trimmed, cleaned and halved lengthwise

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

About 3 tablespoons unsalted butter

Few drops of freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley, for garnishTo prepare:Season the cleaned and halved morels with salt and pepper.

In a large skillet over high heat, add butter and when the foam subsides, add morels and quickly sauté, stirring constantly, until browned and cooked through, but still retain their juices, about 3 to 4 minutes. Transfer the morels to a deep dish, sprinkle with lemon juice, top with fresh parsley and serve at once.Morels With Calvados(6 appetizer servings)2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound morels, trimmed, cleaned and halved lengthwise

Fresh lemon juice to taste

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

1/4 cup Calvados or Apple Jack

1/2 cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon, or more to taste

6 thick slices buttered and toasted French bread or briocheTo prepare:In a large sauté pan over moderate high heat, add butter, when the foam subsides, add morels and cook, stirring until the morels give up their liquid, about 6 to 7 minutes. Sprinkle with lemon juice, salt and pepper. Continue sautéeing until only a few drops of liquid remain. Remove from heat, immediately pour Calvados in the hot pan and let it bubble until nearly evaporated. Whisk cream into the pan and return the pan to medium high heat and cook, stirring constantly until the sauce is thickened (coats the back of the spoon) about 3 to 4 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Stir in tarragon and spoon onto individual plates, each garnished with a slice of toasted and buttered bread.Fresh Morels And Cultivated Mushrooms Over Linguine(Serves 4)1 pound linguine

1/2 pound fresh morels, trimmed, cleaned

1/2 pound fresh cultivated white mushrooms, cleaned, stems removed and reserved

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 cloves garlic, unpeeled and smashed

2 shallots, minced

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

About 2 1/2 cups good quality vegetable or chicken stock, hot

Optional: 1/4 cup heavy cream

1 bunch fresh chives, cut into 1/2-inch lengths

About 1/4 cup chopped or torn lemon basil leaves

About 1/4 cup chopped flat leaf parsley leaves

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese plus extra for passingTo prepare:Clean and pat mushrooms dry with paper towels. Cut morels in half lengthwise, cut cultivated mushrooms into even sized slices (for even cooking.) Add the cultivated stems to the stock in a saucepan and bring to a simmer.

For the sauce: In a large skillet over moderate high heat add olive oil and butter, when the foam subsides, add shallots and garlic and sauté until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Remove the garlic and reserve. Add mushrooms, salt and pepper, and sauté, stirring constantly until all the liquid has evaporated and mushrooms “squeak/sizzle,” about 5 minutes. Discard the mushroom stems in the stock and add the liquid to the skillet. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat and simmer until just enough liquid remains to coat the mushrooms, about 8 minutes. Whisk in the cream, chives, basil and parsley. Bring to a boil and cook about 2 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Set aside.

For the pasta: In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook the linguini until al dente or according to the directions on the side of the package. Scoop out about one and one-half cups of the pasta cooking liquid and reserve. Drain the pasta well, return it to the pot and stir in the mushroom sauce. Add enough of the reserved cooking liquid to make a creamy sauce to coat the pasta. Stir in Parmesan cheese, taste, and adjust the seasonings. Transfer to warm pasta bowls and serve at once. Pass additional Parmesan cheese at the table.