Fennel, Three Ways - 27 East

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Fennel, Three Ways

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Seasonal Chef

  • Publication: Food & Drink
  • Published on: Jan 25, 2018
  • Columnist: Janeen Sarlin

Fennel is a flowering plant in the carrot family. Fennel plants store essential oils in their seeds that qualifies the seeds as an herb; however, the bulb is considered a vegetable like its cousins carrots, parsnips, and celery root. The slight licorice flavor of fennel is unique and it is super-high in vitamin A, high in potassium, and low in calories—only 56 per bulb. Fennel is one of my favorite vegetables.

Look for an unblemished fennel bulb with firm stalks (above the bulb) that are intact. The fronds (green feathery tops) should be a bright color. Fennel can be eaten raw, steamed, blanched, sautéed, baked or braised.

Fennel rèmoulade is inspired by the classic French celery rèmoulade served as a first course. Here, I’ve added orange sections and olives to the rèmoulade for a beautiful salad or a side dish.

The herbal essence of fennel matched with earthy shiitake mushrooms is a marriage made in heaven. Serve this warm salad with fillet of flounder or fluke for dinner tomorrow evening.

Ask me to choose between mashed potatoes or leek and fennel purée, I’ll choose the latter every time. The texture and flavor works with all protein from fish to beef. Make it as soon as possible to see for yourself. Bon appétit!

Fennel Rèmoulade(Serves 4-6)1 large fennel bulb, trimmed, fronds reserved

1 teaspoon sea salt

2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

4 tablespoons Dijon mustard

3 tablespoons boiling water

1/3 to 1/2 cup olive oil

2 tablespoons white or red wine vinegar

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

3 tablespoons fresh flat leaf parsley chopped

Boston lettuce leaves and chopped fennel frondsOptional:1 large seedless orange, segments only (skin and pith discarded)

5 pitted black olives, sliced

Fresh mint leavesTo prepare:Trim the bottom and stems off fennel bulb, reserve fronds for garnish.

Working with a Benriner or mandoline, cut the bulb into very thin crosswise slices.

Transfer fennel to non-reactive bowl and steep with salt and lemon juice for 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a very clean bowl, add the mustard and whisk in boiling water. Slowly add olive oil, whisking constantly, and finally, whisk vinegar into the emulsion. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Can be done ahead and stored in the refrigerator.

Drain off the lemon juice. Remove fennel from the lemon juice; if it tastes too strong, rinse with water, and drain well. Pat off the excess moisture with paper towels and fold the fennel into the mustard sauce. Marinate for two hours at room temperature or overnight in the refrigerator.

To serve as first course or as a salad: Mound fennel into lettuce leaves, garnish with parsley and/or fronds.

For the option of fennel rèmoulade with orange, olives, and mint:

With a serrated knife, cut off both ends of the orange and place it upright on a cutting board. Working in strips, remove the rind and pith by cutting around the contour of the orange to expose the flesh. Holding the orange in one hand over the bowl of fennel, cut along either side of each section to free it from the membrane, allowing the sections and juices to drip over the fennel. Add olives and replace parsley with mint and toss together before serving.Warm Fennel And 
Shiitake Mushroom Salad(Serves 4)1 medium fennel bulb, trimmed, fronds reserved for garnish

Freshly squeezed lemon juice for drizzling

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

8 to 10 shiitake mushrooms, about 4 ounces

3 medium cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed

1/4 cup red wine vinegar, aged in oak

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

Shaved Parmesan cheese for garnishTo prepare:Trim the bottom and stems off fennel bulb, reserve fronds for garnish.

Cut bulb in half lengthwise. Place cut side down on cutting board and with a knife, cut fennel into thin lengthwise slices. Drizzle with lemon juice to prevent discoloration.

Twist the stems off the mushrooms and reserve them for vegetable stock. Rinse the caps and cut into thin slices and reserve.

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, coat the bottom with oil, add fennel and sauté until beginning to soften, about two minutes. Add mushrooms, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and sauté, about four minutes. Add garlic and fennel seeds, reduce the heat, and cook until the vegetables are tender, about five minutes longer. Add vinegar, scraping up the brown parts in the bottom of the pan. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Transfer to a shallow serving bowl, let cool slightly before garnishing with shaved cheese and fennel fronds.Purée Of Fennel And Leeks(Serves 4)2 large leeks, trimmed, washed and white parts only, chopped

1 large fennel bulb, trimmed and chopped, fronds reserved

About 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

About 1/2 teaspoon thyme

About 1/2 teaspoon Herbs de Provence

About 1 cup good quality vegetable stock

Fresh thyme leaves and fennel fronds chopped, for garnishTo prepare:In a large heavy saucepan over moderate heat, coat the bottom with oil. Add leeks and fennel and sauté until they begin to soften, about four minutes. Stir in thyme, herbs de Provence, salt and pepper, add stock, cover the pan and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer (adding more stock if necessary) until the vegetables are soft and tender, about 20 minutes.

With an immersion blender, or in a food processor, purée until smooth. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Transfer to a serving bowl, drizzle a few drops of olive oil on top and garnish with a few thyme leaves and fennel fronds.

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