Amber Waves and the Journey to Better Bread - 27 East

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Amber Waves and the Journey to Better Bread

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The author's homemade Amber Waves & Einkorn Loaf. COURTESY ROBYN HENDERSON-DIEDERIKS

The author's homemade Amber Waves & Einkorn Loaf. COURTESY ROBYN HENDERSON-DIEDERIKS

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The Chef's Notebook

At some point during the pandemic, almost everyone I knew dabbled in bread baking. I suppose there was something about isolation that made people desperate for a sense of purpose. Some got a dog; others adopted a sourdough starter.

And they took it seriously! They named them, fed them religiously, documented every bubble and rise and posted pictures of their progress like proud parents. I wasn’t one of them.

I’ve always shied away from baking. The precision intimidated me. Cooking has always been a fluid, instinctual process for me. Baking, on the other hand, felt rigid and unforgiving. The weighing, measuring, the science of it all! But as my passion for sourcing the best ingredients deepened, I knew I had to step it up. If I cared so much about where my produce and proteins came from, why wasn’t I paying the same attention to my flour?

That’s when I started using wheat from Amber Waves Farm in Amagansett. It wasn’t part of some grand experiment; it was just another progression in my quest to make the best food I could while staying true to my mission of supporting local farms. From there, I started experimenting with ancient grains like einkorn, curious about the depth of flavor and digestibility they offered. The results were undeniable.

The more I baked with freshly milled wheat, the more I realized what I had been missing. Store-bought flour is so stripped of its nutrients and overprocessed into something lifeless. It just doesn’t compare. Freshly milled wheat has character. It smells rich and nutty, tastes complex and transforms a simple loaf into something truly nourishing. The difference isn’t just in flavor, it’s in how it makes you feel.

When I bake a loaf using Amber Waves wheat or ancient grains, it’s gone within hours. And unlike mass-produced bread, which often leaves you feeling sluggish and bloated, this bread feels different. There’s no crash or heaviness, just real food, made the way it was meant to be.

Amber Waves: A Farm With a Mission

Amber Waves isn’t just growing food; they’re preserving a way of life. Their apprenticeship program teaches future farmers how to tend the land, their CSA and community programs bring people closer to their food source, and their open access policy ensures that their farm remains a resource for everyone, not just those with deep pockets. They’re proving that real food starts with real people, not corporations.

So after years of avoiding bread baking I found myself finding joy in the practice. I fine-tuned my process, learned from (many) mistakes, and embraced the unpredictability of it all. I still wouldn’t call myself a baker, but I’ve come to appreciate that breadmaking isn’t just about science. For me it’s about patience, practice and, most importantly, great ingredients.

This recipe is the result of that journey — a simple, rustic bread made with Amber Waves wheat and einkorn flours. It’s not complicated, but it is rewarding. And like all good things, it starts with knowing where your food comes from.

Amber Waves & Einkorn Loaf

(Makes 2 Loaves)

Ingredients:

1 packet active dry yeast

2 1/4 cups warm water

1 tsp local honey

1 tsp salt

100g Amber Waves flour (a little less than 1 cup)

500g Einkorn flour (about 3 3/4 cups)

1 tbsp olive oil

Instructions:

1. In a mixing bowl, combine warm water, honey and yeast. Stir and let sit for 5 minutes until foamy.

2. Add salt, Amber Waves flour and einkorn flour. Stir until the dough begins to come together.

3. Transfer to a stand mixer with a dough hook and knead for 5 to 7 minutes until smooth.

4. Place dough in an oiled bowl, cover and let rise for 2 to 3 hours, or until doubled in size.

5. Divide dough in half, place in two oiled loaf pans, and let rise again until puffy.

6. Bake at 400°F for about 25 minutes, until golden brown.

7. Let cool slightly before slicing and serve with salted garlic and herb butter, your favorite jam, hot honey or oil and vinegar.

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